Friday, February 20, 2009

Sourdough Bread


Rye & Wheat Starter
From "Bakewise" by Shirley O. Corriher

I bought "Bakewise" for myself as a Christmas present and I am totally smitten. She looks at baking (or cooking for that matter in “Cookwise”) thru the eyes of a scientist. That might not sound very interesting, but it is. She helps you understand how the ingredients and the process create different effects.

I found 2 challenges to this recipe: first keeping the starter at the right temperature during the creation process and ,second, throwing out the extra starter along the way.

On keeping the starter at the right temperature: The starter needs to be kept at a temperature between 80-86degrees F. She suggests buying an inexpensive plant propagating mat(maybe a heating pad would also work), which I did, but the cool temperatures in the house did not allow the mat to keep the starter within this range. The starter never bubbled, but it did ”sour” and when I used in the bread recipe on day 4 of the process the loaves were beautiful, had a sour flavor, but were too chewy- not like rubber, but enough so that it wouldn’t make a good sandwich. Fabulous toast though. In my second attempt, I thought maybe I would put a towel over the starter and heating pad. That worked great at night, but during the day with the sun shining in it became too hot- I tested it at one point and it was near 100 degrees. I baked the bread and though it was beautiful, the excessive heat had destroyed all flavor- it was literally flavorless. On attempt 3 I used the towel and kept it out of the sunshine – every time I tested the temperature it was around 82 degrees-Magic!- the bread was beautiful, had a gorgeous crust and beautiful crewy crumb and the taste is to die for- not super soury like San Francisco sour dough, but more like a European “country” bread

On throwing out the “extra starter” along the way: I am not sure why, but Ms Corriher’s recipe makes approx 2 ½ cups of starter at each step and you use only 1 ¼ of it in the next step. She says to either throw the excess out or freeze it. I hated the idea of throwing it out, but I also hated the idea of having all sorts of dough at different stages in my freezer, so this is what I did. I did the first step and second step just like she said( meaning I threw out 1 ¼ cup of starter from the first step and mixed the remaining 1 ¼ into the 2nd step starter) . When I got to the 3rd step, instead of throwing it out I split it into two bowls and created two separate sourdoughs. In the 4th stage I just doubled the recipe in each bowl. At the 5th stage I put the excess of both bowls in the freezer (and marked them 5th stage) and used the remaining 1 ¼ cups for the 6th and final stage-( each bowl of starter in the end produced 2 loaves of bread- so I had a few extra to give away- no complaints from the recipients)

Other notes: 1) If you don’t have one, buy yourself a thermometer- its really valuable during this process and in bread making in general- to determine dough temp. I bought one this winter and I’m really happy to have it. 2) She says to use a plastic container- I don’t, I just use a ceramic bowl with saran wrap and a plate over that- the starter stays moist enough for me. 3) I don’t use spring water, but I do use my reverse osmosis filtered water. 4) Do what she says with the rocks to create steam- Frank & I stole some rocks from under the overpass to Park Point, took them home and sterilized them( pigeons do like that spot). It has really made a difference in the crust as well as the bread’s ability to help rise further during the baking process. 5) I put the loaves on a pan to rise and then place the pan on a heated baking stone which is above the steaming rocks. I do have a paddle, but I don’t use it for this recipe.


From Shirley Corriher in “Bakewise”:

This is my adaptation of a recipe by Calvel. Again, I used an electric plant propagator that I purchased from a nursery. Mine has no settings, so I put a cup of water on it and plugged it in to find
out what temperature it maintained. It is supposed to be 10 to 20°F/6 to 11°C higher than ambient
temperature. You can go up as high as 86°F/30°C, but you absolutely need to stay in the 80 to
86 range.

I like to use a plastic container with a snap-on lid like the plastic storage containers that you can
my in packages of three to five in the grocery store. The snap-on lid works well because it is tight
enough to prevent the starter from drying out and yet, if the starter gets vigorous, it will simply pop
off rather than explode.

Calvel calls for a small amount of malt extract. Fortunately, both King Arthur Unbleached All
Purpose and Gold Medal Harvest King Unbleached flour already have a small amount of malted
Barley flour added. I find this really convenient. I can forget about malt extract.

These hours to tend the starter are tough-like feeding a new baby. But this is an outstanding
starter and will give you great flavored breads.

MIX AT 9 A.M.

2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1 2/3 cups (393 ml, 13.4 oz/379 g) spring water
1/2 teaspoon (3 g) salt
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled whole-grain dark rye flour
2 teaspoons (3 g) malt extract (only if you are not using either Gold Medal Harvest
King or King Arthur Unbleached flour)

In large (8-cup, 1.9-L) plastic container with a snap-on lid, stir together both flours, the spring
water, salt, and malt extract, if using. Snap on the lid. Place in a warm spot-80°F/27°C. Stir the
starter frequently, at least four times during the next 22 hours.

(AT 7 A.M: THE NEXT DAY (AFTER 22 HOURS)
About 1 1/4 cups (10.6 oz/300 g) starter from above
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon spring water
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1/8teaspoon (pinch) salt

Stir your starter and remove the amount you need for this step. Discard or freeze the rest. Stir
together the starter, flour, water, and salt, and replace the lid. Place back in the warm spot 80°
F/27°C. Stir the starter frequently, at least three times during the next 7 hours.
AT 2 P;M. (AFTER 7 HOURS)

About 1 1/4 cups (10.6 oz/300 g) starter from above
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon spring water
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1/8teaspoon (pinch) salt

Stir your starter and remove the amount you need for this step. Discard or freeze the rest. Stir
together the starter, flour, water, and salt, and replace the lid. Place back in the warm spot80°
F/27°C. Stir the starter frequently, at least three times during the next 7 hours.


AT 9 P.M. (AFTER ANOTHER 7 HOURS)

About 1 1/4 cups (10.6 oz/300 g) starter from above
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon spring water
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1/8 teaspoon (pinch) salt

Stir your starter and remove the amount you need for this step. Discard or freeze the rest. Stir
together the starter, flour, water, and salt, and replace the lid. Place back in the warm spot80oP/
27°C. Stir the starter frequently, at least three times during the next 6 hours.

AT 3 A.M. THE THIRD DAY (AFTER ANOTHER 6 HOURS)

About 1 1/4 cups (10.6 oz/300 g) starter from above
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon spring water
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1/8 teaspoon (pinch) salt

Stir together the starter, flour, water, and salt, and replace the lid. Place back in the warm spot80F/27°C. Stir the starter frequently, at least once during the next 6 hours.

AT 9 A.M. (AFTER ANOTHER 6 HOURS)

About 1 1/4 cups (10.6 oz/300 g) starter from above
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon spring water
2 1/3 cups (10.5 oz/298 g) spooned and leveled King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose or
Gold Medal Harvest King flour
1/8teaspoon (pinch) salt

Stir together the starter, flour, water, and salt, and replace the lid. Place back in the warm spot 80oF/27°C. Stir the starter frequently, at least once during the next 6 hours.

AT 3 P.M. (AFTER 6 HOURS)

The starter is ready to use.

BUILDING A STARTER

To use a sourdough starter, you need to build it up to good activity. This is done by taking a small portion of the starter and combining it with flour and water and allowing it to stand at 700P/21°C for 12 to 16 hours. You can see exactly how this is done in the following recipe.

Sourdough Rustic Boules
-Make 2 large loaves

STARTER BUILD

1/4 cup (59 ml) Rye and Wheat Starter
2 cups (9 oz/255 g) spooned and leveled Gold Medal Harvest King or King Arthur
1 1/2 cups (355 ml) spring water ( 68 degrees)

Make this 12 to 16 hours before making the final dough. Stir the starter well, spoon it into a bowl, and stir in the water and the flour. Cover and allow to stand at about 70oF/21°C.

FINAL DOUGH

3/4cup (177 ml, 6.1 oz/173 g) water
3 1/2 cups (15.8 oz/447 g) spooned and leveled Gold Medal Harvest King or King Arthur 2 tablespoons (21 g) semolina flour
1 teaspoon (4 g) instant yeast, such as RapidRise or Quick-Rise
1tablespoon (19 g) fine sea salt
1 tablespoon (15 ml) canola oil, divided

1. In a mixer with the dough hook, beat together the water, both flours, and 2 cups (473 ml) of the built starter on low speed for about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to stand for about 40 minutes.
2. Sprinkle the yeast over the dough and mix for about 30 seconds. Sprinkle the salt over the dough and mix on the second speed about 1Y2 minutes until the dough has come together. The dough should not be firm, but not totally soft-a medium consistency. Add water or flour and mix as needed. Cover the dough with plastic wrap lightly sprayed with nonstick cooking spray and allow to ferment, ideally at about 76°F/24°C.
3. After 25 minutes, with an oiled paper towel, lightly oil an area on a clean countertop. Dump out the dough onto the counter. Lift one-third of the dough on the right and pull across to the other side. Lift one-third of the dough on the left and pull across to the other side. Lift bottom one-third of the dough up and across the dough. Lift top one-third of the dough and pull it down across the dough. Lightly oil a bowl and place the dough in the bowl with the side that was on the counter turned up. After 25 minutes, dump the dough on the lightly oiled counter with the top of the dough on the counter. Fold the dough again as before. Place the dough back in the bowl, counter side up. Cover with plastic wrap lightly sprayed with nonstick cooking spray and allow to stand 20 minutes more.
4. Place the dough on the counter and gently divide into two equal pieces. With both hands in a cupping motion, tuck the sides slightly under each piece, creating a smooth top. By tucking the dough into a tight smooth round you create a covering to better hold gases. Cover each oval with plastic wrap sprayed with nonstick cooking spray and leave on the counter for about 20 minutes. The relaxed dough is now much easier to shape.
5. Arrange a shelf in the lower third of the oven, place a baking stone on it, and preheat the oven to 460°F/238°C.
6. Put about 11/4 cups (296 ml) of water in a saucepan and heat to a very low boil for a steam bath.
7. Using your left hand as a backstop, with your right hand, press gently against the dough round and "massage" with a stroke away from you, massaging the side of the round. Rotate the round and again gently "knead" the side of the dough. Repeat with the other round. Place the rounds on a piece of Release foil, nonstick side up, or a ·piece of parchment sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Cover with plastic wrap sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Allow to rise about 25 minutes at about 76°F/24°c.
8. Place a few clean small rocks (about 1 to 2 inches/2.5 to 5 cm each) in a pan with 2-inch (5-cm) sides and place the pan on the floor of the oven. You are going to pour about 1 cup (237 m!) of boiling water over the rocks before you put the bread in the oven. You want a good steam-filled oven for the bread to go in. This steam will condense on the dough to keep it moist and allow a good oven rise. When the bread has risen, turn the heat up under the water and bring to a boil. Very carefully, with oven mitts on, making sure your arms and face are out of the way of the steam that will burst up, pour the boiling water into the pan of hot rocks. Close the oven door to allow it to fill with steam.
9. Slash the rounds at an angle, using several quick slashes only about 1;s inch (3 cm) deep. Place the loaves side by side on the foil. I do not have a baker's peel, so I slide a thin, flat baking sheet with no raised edges on three sides under the foil and then slide the foil with the dough on top onto the hot stone. Bake for 34 to 38 minutes, until well browned. Remove the loaves to a rack to cool.

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