From the “ Breads of France” section of "The Village Baker" by Joe Ortiz
This cookbook is by far the best bread cookbook I have ever seen. Frank gave it to me for Christmas many years ago and it is consistently the book I reference when looking for a new bread recipe. Every recipe I have ever used from it is wonderful- typically earthy, beautiful and tasty. Throughout the book he also gives a commentary on the bakers he met while researching the book and the techniques they use as well as notes for advanced bakers. This is the book that taught me the pleasure of starting the bread the night before with a poulish. Before the recipe are some of his thoughts on the recipe.
From Joe Ortiz:
"Whenever I think of retiring to the country, I fantasize about buying an apple orchard in Corralitos, California, where I imagine myself building a brick oven fueled by branches of apple wood. I can almost smell the aroma of an apple bread made from apple starter and my own homegrown organic apples. Well, the dream may never happen. But if someone else wants to make an aromatic, sourdough apple bread, here is the recipe. Although it is an involved, time consuming process, this is one of the most unusual recipes have come across in that it shows one how to make an authentic sourdough starter from fruit that has been allowed to ferment.
If the prospect of making a loaf of bread that is going to take the better part of two weeks is a bit daunting, you might like to experiment with a shortcut. Instead of making an apple starter from scratch, mix the dough using the ingredients listed on page 125 and substitute 2 1/2 cups pain ordinaire dough for the levain de pomme; .the rest of the recipe may be followed without any changes.
The pain ordinaire starter will give a lighter, more yeatys flavor; the levain de pomme a more shiny sourdough texture and a pleasing apple -cider flavor. "
From Kathleen: Though this recipe is long, its really easy. The trick is to come up with a way to keep the starter warm- I just read an idea in another book that says use a heating pad or seed starter pad under the bowl."
MAKES FOUR /4-0UNCE BATARDS or BOULES
LEVAIN DE POMME
I medium-sized apple cut into pieces
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
THE FIRST REFRESHMENT
I teaspoon rnalt extract or2 teaspoons honey
1/3to1/2 cup warm water
½ cup of apple starter from previous step
2 cups organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
THE SECOND REFRESHMENT
I teaspoon honey malt extract or I teaspoon honey
Approximately 1/3cup water
All of the levain from the previous step
I cup organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
THE DOUGH
1 pound tart Granny Smith or Gravenstein apples (4 cups cubed)
3 to 4 tablespoons butter for sautéing the apples
1 package (21/2 teaspoons; 1/4 ounce) active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
1 teaspoon malt extract or I teaspoon honey
3 cups organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
1 cup organic rye flour
1 tablespoon salt
All of the levain de pomme (a little over 2 cups) from the previous step
GIaze: 1.egg white beaten with 1/2 cup cold water
TO MAKE THE STARTER, combine the ingredients and let them rest, covered in a warm place, for between 8 and 10 days. When the mixture has become highly alcoholic and carbonic gas starts to develop, it is ready to use.
If any mold, fungus, or other, fuzz has developed on the apple mixture, Carefully 'remove it. This should leave at least three-quarters of the mixture (1/2 cup).
FOR THE FIRST REFRESHMENT. dissolve the malt extract or honey in the warm water. Mash the pieces of apple to a paste and add the malt extract mixture. Add the flour by the handful while mixing with a wooden spoon. When the dough comes together, empty it onto the worktable, and knead in the rest, of the flour. Continue kneading into a firm dough for between 8 and 10 minutes.
Place the levain de pomme in a container, covered with a damp dish towel, in a very warm spot to rise for between 8 and 10 hours. If the levain looks splotchy and spooky, throw it out and. start over. If it looks round and well risen it is ready to be refreshed.
FOR THE. SECOND REFRESHMENT. dissolve the malt in the warm water. Break up the levain in a bowl and pour the malt extract and water mixture over it. Start adding the flour by the handful while mixing with a plastic dough scraper. Mix into a firm dough. If necessary up to l or 2 .tablespoons more flour may be added to make the dough firm, but not too dry.
Let this refreshed levain de pomme ferment for between 3 and 5 hours, in a container covered with a damp cloth as before. It should double in size.
TO MAKE THE DOUGH. Begin by preparing the apples/ Peel, core and cut them into 1/2-inch pieces. Sauté them in the butter just for a few minutes until they have softened. Set them aside.
Proof the yeast in a little of the warm water and, when it creamy (this will take about 10 minutes), add it, together with the malt extract, to the rest of the water in a large bowl. chop up the levain with a dough cutter or knife and add it to the liquid. Combine the salt with the flours, and then start adding the dry mixture to the liquid by handfuls while mixing with a spoon. After you have added several handfuls
of flour, you will need to stir the spongy mixture quite vigorously in order to dissolve the levain and make sure it becomes well incorporated in this early stage. Continue adding the flour until you have only several handfuls left and the dough has come together somewhat .•This will take about l0 minutes. Empty the dough onto a worktable, clean off your hands and the bowl with a plastic dough scraper, and, just before the final cup of flour is added to the dough, add the sautéed apples and incorporate them. Then knead the dough to a firm consistency with the rest of the flour.
Set the dough aside, covered and in a warm place, to r se for 1-4 hours until it has doubled in bulk.
Cut the dough into 4 pieces .and shape each piece into batard or boule. Do not be concerned if the apples break through the skin of the dough when you are shaping it. Just try to poke them back in. Place the 1oaves on a parchment lined
baking sheet or, if you plan to use a baking stone, on a flour-dusted board. Set them aside, covered and in a warm place, to rise for between 45 minutes and hour.
Glaze the loaves and, with a razor blade, slash the boule in a tick-tack-toe pattern and give the batard 3 diagonal cuts.
Bake the loaves in a preheated 425°F to 450°F oven, either directly on the baking stones or on a baking tray, for between 35 and 40 inures. For the last 15 minutes of baking, turn the oven down to between 375°F and 400°F.
This cookbook is by far the best bread cookbook I have ever seen. Frank gave it to me for Christmas many years ago and it is consistently the book I reference when looking for a new bread recipe. Every recipe I have ever used from it is wonderful- typically earthy, beautiful and tasty. Throughout the book he also gives a commentary on the bakers he met while researching the book and the techniques they use as well as notes for advanced bakers. This is the book that taught me the pleasure of starting the bread the night before with a poulish. Before the recipe are some of his thoughts on the recipe.
From Joe Ortiz:
"Whenever I think of retiring to the country, I fantasize about buying an apple orchard in Corralitos, California, where I imagine myself building a brick oven fueled by branches of apple wood. I can almost smell the aroma of an apple bread made from apple starter and my own homegrown organic apples. Well, the dream may never happen. But if someone else wants to make an aromatic, sourdough apple bread, here is the recipe. Although it is an involved, time consuming process, this is one of the most unusual recipes have come across in that it shows one how to make an authentic sourdough starter from fruit that has been allowed to ferment.
If the prospect of making a loaf of bread that is going to take the better part of two weeks is a bit daunting, you might like to experiment with a shortcut. Instead of making an apple starter from scratch, mix the dough using the ingredients listed on page 125 and substitute 2 1/2 cups pain ordinaire dough for the levain de pomme; .the rest of the recipe may be followed without any changes.
The pain ordinaire starter will give a lighter, more yeatys flavor; the levain de pomme a more shiny sourdough texture and a pleasing apple -cider flavor. "
From Kathleen: Though this recipe is long, its really easy. The trick is to come up with a way to keep the starter warm- I just read an idea in another book that says use a heating pad or seed starter pad under the bowl."
MAKES FOUR /4-0UNCE BATARDS or BOULES
LEVAIN DE POMME
I medium-sized apple cut into pieces
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
THE FIRST REFRESHMENT
I teaspoon rnalt extract or2 teaspoons honey
1/3to1/2 cup warm water
½ cup of apple starter from previous step
2 cups organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
THE SECOND REFRESHMENT
I teaspoon honey malt extract or I teaspoon honey
Approximately 1/3cup water
All of the levain from the previous step
I cup organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
THE DOUGH
1 pound tart Granny Smith or Gravenstein apples (4 cups cubed)
3 to 4 tablespoons butter for sautéing the apples
1 package (21/2 teaspoons; 1/4 ounce) active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
1 teaspoon malt extract or I teaspoon honey
3 cups organic, unbleached white (or all-purpose) flour
1 cup organic rye flour
1 tablespoon salt
All of the levain de pomme (a little over 2 cups) from the previous step
GIaze: 1.egg white beaten with 1/2 cup cold water
TO MAKE THE STARTER, combine the ingredients and let them rest, covered in a warm place, for between 8 and 10 days. When the mixture has become highly alcoholic and carbonic gas starts to develop, it is ready to use.
If any mold, fungus, or other, fuzz has developed on the apple mixture, Carefully 'remove it. This should leave at least three-quarters of the mixture (1/2 cup).
FOR THE FIRST REFRESHMENT. dissolve the malt extract or honey in the warm water. Mash the pieces of apple to a paste and add the malt extract mixture. Add the flour by the handful while mixing with a wooden spoon. When the dough comes together, empty it onto the worktable, and knead in the rest, of the flour. Continue kneading into a firm dough for between 8 and 10 minutes.
Place the levain de pomme in a container, covered with a damp dish towel, in a very warm spot to rise for between 8 and 10 hours. If the levain looks splotchy and spooky, throw it out and. start over. If it looks round and well risen it is ready to be refreshed.
FOR THE. SECOND REFRESHMENT. dissolve the malt in the warm water. Break up the levain in a bowl and pour the malt extract and water mixture over it. Start adding the flour by the handful while mixing with a plastic dough scraper. Mix into a firm dough. If necessary up to l or 2 .tablespoons more flour may be added to make the dough firm, but not too dry.
Let this refreshed levain de pomme ferment for between 3 and 5 hours, in a container covered with a damp cloth as before. It should double in size.
TO MAKE THE DOUGH. Begin by preparing the apples/ Peel, core and cut them into 1/2-inch pieces. Sauté them in the butter just for a few minutes until they have softened. Set them aside.
Proof the yeast in a little of the warm water and, when it creamy (this will take about 10 minutes), add it, together with the malt extract, to the rest of the water in a large bowl. chop up the levain with a dough cutter or knife and add it to the liquid. Combine the salt with the flours, and then start adding the dry mixture to the liquid by handfuls while mixing with a spoon. After you have added several handfuls
of flour, you will need to stir the spongy mixture quite vigorously in order to dissolve the levain and make sure it becomes well incorporated in this early stage. Continue adding the flour until you have only several handfuls left and the dough has come together somewhat .•This will take about l0 minutes. Empty the dough onto a worktable, clean off your hands and the bowl with a plastic dough scraper, and, just before the final cup of flour is added to the dough, add the sautéed apples and incorporate them. Then knead the dough to a firm consistency with the rest of the flour.
Set the dough aside, covered and in a warm place, to r se for 1-4 hours until it has doubled in bulk.
Cut the dough into 4 pieces .and shape each piece into batard or boule. Do not be concerned if the apples break through the skin of the dough when you are shaping it. Just try to poke them back in. Place the 1oaves on a parchment lined
baking sheet or, if you plan to use a baking stone, on a flour-dusted board. Set them aside, covered and in a warm place, to rise for between 45 minutes and hour.
Glaze the loaves and, with a razor blade, slash the boule in a tick-tack-toe pattern and give the batard 3 diagonal cuts.
Bake the loaves in a preheated 425°F to 450°F oven, either directly on the baking stones or on a baking tray, for between 35 and 40 inures. For the last 15 minutes of baking, turn the oven down to between 375°F and 400°F.
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